TT 



5^ 




Class J7I5^ 
Book — z4iiLS_ 

Copyright N" 

COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT 



Drafting Pants and Overalls 



By 



HARRY SIMONS 

Technical Editor of "The Clothing Designer and Manufacturer," and "The Tailor 
Mechanic," and author of "The Science of Grading," and "Designing Overcoats." 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO. 
70 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK 

(Copynght luiie, 1915) 



^^^e^-i 



Shop Efficiency 
Achieved 




Use "IDEAL" 
PATTERN RACKS 

$1.00 Each $10.00 Per Dozen 

File }'our patterns away neatly, com- 
pactly, and orderly. 

Sticking them on nails in the wall, or 
letting them lie aroun<l tn lie liroken is 
ine.xcusable. 

We furnish Idank guides. Fill in the 
size and st}le. Hang your patterns on 
the Ideal Pattern Rack, and you can lo- 
cate them at once. 

(iive your cutters a tag. Have them 
hang their tag when they take 'a pattern 
away, then j'ou can tell where it is. No 
time wasted searching and interrupting 
busy workmen. 

'.Send A Trial Order Today. 

THE CLOTHING DESIGNER COMPANY 



70 FIFTH AVE. 



NEW YORK 



m 



S m 



The Clothing 
Designer and 
Manufacturer 

Is a monthly technical journal devoted to 
the science of designing and making 
clothes. 

ESTABLISHED five years ago, practi- 
cally every designer and clothing manu- 
facturer in the United States, Canada, 
Europe and Australia subscribe to it, and 
use it monthly as a reference and text 
book. 

Every issue contains diagrams, drafts, 
and technical information on scientific 
tailoring, efificiency articles etc. It covers 
the designing of men's, women's and chil- 
dren's clothing — including cotton gar- 
ments of every description. 

Subscription $5.00 Per Annum. 
(6 months, $3.00.) 



THE 

TAILOR 

MECHANIC 

Is a monthly technical journal devoted to 
the science of cutting and tailoring. 

THIS magazine is indispensable for 
cutters and tailors, inasmuch as it con- 
tains rudimentary designing lessons 
drafts and text on latest styles ; foreman's 
instructions and suggestions. 

Getting to the point it contains instruc- 
tion such as will enhance the value of any 
mechanic who studies it and enable the 
aggressive element to advance to design- 
ing positions. 

Subscription — $2.00 Per Annum. 



JUN22 




INTRODUCTION 



INTRODUCTION. 

The author has long felt the need of a reliable and an 
efficient pants and overall system, as there are various 
methods of drafting pants and overalls in vogue, which 
give only partial satisfactory results. The system ex- 
plained in this book has been thoroughly tested. The 
various diagrams are minutely described, and the reader 
will find them very simple. 

This volume also contains a complete table of pro- 
portions together with the various alterations, that are used 
in the mail-order houses. 

The purchaser of this book, after mastering the dia- 
grams herein explained, should be able to handle any pants 
or overall problem that he may be confronted with. 

(Signed) 

HARRY SIMONS. 



CONTENTS 



CONTENTS 

Page 

Apron Overall 22-23 

Bow-legged and knock-kneed 18-19 

Drafting Pants Pockets and Pocket Lays 28-29 

Forepart draft 6-7 

Mail-order changes 26-27 

Measuring Pants 5 

One-piece Overall 24-25 

Overall draft 20-21 

Overall and Pants proportions . 31 

Peg top Pants 14-15 

Regular Pants draft, complete 8-9 

Riding Breeches ._.. 30 

Stout Pants draft 10-11 

Work Pants 16-17 

Young men's Pants draft 12-13 



MEASURING PANTS 



PANTS MEASUREMENTS 




Diagram I. 




Diagram I 



MEASUREMENTS 

The illustration on this page gives you a correct idea of how the measurement shouKl he 
taken for a pair of pants. 

A to B is the waist measurement. 

C to D is the seat measurement. 

I to J is the knee measurement. 

K to L is the bottom measurement. 

E to F is the outside measurement. This can be taken with or without the waistl)and. 

G to H is the inseam measurement. 

The difference between the outside seam measurement and the inseam measurement is the 



FOREPART 



Diagram III and IV. 

DRAFTING THE FOREPART 

Construction Lines 

MEASUREMENTS 
Waist 34 inches. 
Seat 40 inches. 
Rise 93^ inches. 
Knee 20 inches. 
Bottom 15j^ inches. 
Inseam 32 inches. 

DRAFT 
Draw hne ABCDEF. 
A to C is the rise or 9>^ inches 
C to F is the inseam or 32 inches. 
E is half way between C and F. 
D is 2 inches from E. 
Square out from points ACDF. 
C to G is ^ of seat. 
G to H is >^ inch. 
Square up from H to L. 
G to I is >^ of seat. 
I to J is Yz inch. 
I to K is 5^ inch. 
M is half way between I and C. 
Square up from M to N. 
.Square down from M to O. 
H to P is >i of seat. 
Square out from P to B. 
Draw line P-I. 

to R is >4 incli. 
Draw hne M-R-S. • 

R to T and R to U are ^4 of knee (20 inches). 
S to W is ]A, of bottom (15^^ inches). 

Draw lines K-T-V and C-U-W, whicli completes all the construction lines for the forepart. 
The construction lines in this diagram are for the conservative styles of trousers. 

FOREPART 

Conservative Trousers 

This diagram is for medium priced clothing. The style is conservative, it being neither Peg 
nor English. 

MEASUREMENTS 
W'aist 34 inches. 
.Seat 40 inches. 
Knee 20 inches. 
Bottom 15j,4 inches. 
Rise 9}^ inches. 
Inseam 32 inches. 

DRAFT 
Draw line ARCDE 
A to C is 9j^ inches (the rise). 
C to E is the inseam (32 inches). 

C to D is the knee, i/^ of the inseam less 2 inches, which in tliis case is 14 inches. 
Square out from points ACDE. 
C to F is i^ of the seat. 
F to G is J.4 inch. 
-Square up from G to H. 
F to I is J/^ of seat. 

1 to J is Yi inch. 
I to K is 1/2 inch 

t is half way between I and C. 

Square up from L to M and down from L to X. 

G to R is l^ of seat. 



FOREPART 



L H 



H i , G 



i± 




Diagram III. 

Square out from R to B. 

Draw line R-I. 

Dray line S, which is % inch below R-I. 

M to H and M to Y are J4 of waist each. 

Shape the front of trousers H-J. 

C to X is 34 inch. 

O to T and O to U are % of knee each. 

N to O is >^ inch. 

Draw line L-O-P. 

P to y and P to W are j4 of bottom each. 

Draw the outside seam Y-X-U-W and the inside scam J-T-V. 

Draw line V-W, which completes the forepart. 



Diagram IV, 



REGULAR PANTS 



Diagram V. 
REGULAR PANTS DRAFT 

( Complete ) 

This draft is a continuation of diagram 2, showing the complete draft of forepart and 
back. 

MEASUREMENTS 
Waisf 34. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 20. 
Bottom I5y2. 
Rise 914. 
Inseam 32. 

DRAFT 
The forepart is drafted the same as explained in diagram 2. 

BACK 

1 to 4 is 1/12 of seat. 

4 to 5 is 5^ inch. 
Square down from 5 to 6. 

5 to 6 is 5^ inch. 

2 is half way between J and M. 
Draw line 3-R-2-7. 

2 to 7 is 2J/2 inches. 

Shape the seat 7-2-1-6. 

B to 9 is 1^ inches. 

S to J and 7 to 8 are J^ of waist plus 2}i inches, 19>4 inches in this case. 

11 to U is J/^ inch. 

W to 13 is y2 inch. 

Draw line 8-9-11-13. 

T to 10 is ^ inch. 

V to 12 is ^ inch. 

Draw the inseam 6-10-12, which completes the draft. 



REGULAR PAN IS 




DIAGRAM V. 



10 ' STOUT PANTS 



DIAGRAM VI. 

STOUT PANTS 

This draft is for a conservative style, and is made according to the average proportion- 
ate measurements. 



Waist 40. 
Seat 42. 
Rise lOK- 
Knee 20 J^. 
Bottom 16. 
Inseam 32. 



MEASUREMENTS 



DRAFT 



Draw hne ABCDEF. 

A to C is lOyi inches. 

C to F is the inseam, 32 inches. 

E is half way between C and F. 

E to D is 2 inches. 

Square out from points A-C-D-F. 

C to H is 3^ of seat plus J^ inch. 

Square up from H to N. 

G to H is >4 inch. 

C to I is % of seat. 

I to J and I to K are J/l inch each. 

L is half way between I and C. 

Square up from L to N. 

M to O and M to P are % of waist each. 

O to R is 3^ inch. 

Draw line R-P. 

Square down from O to U. 

to U IS 1/6 of waist. 
Draw line U-H. 

H to S is % of seat. 
Square out from S to B. 
Draw line S-L 
Shape the front R-J. 
Square down from L to W. 
B' to 6 is J4 inch. 

V to X and V to Y are % of knee each. 
W to Z and W to X are % of bottom each. 
Z to 3 and 2 to 4 are % 'tich each. 

Shape the inseam J-X-3 and the outside seam P-6-Y-4. 

W to 5 is ^ inch. 

Sha])e the bottom 3-3-4, which completes the forepart. 

BACK 

8 is half way between N and M. 
.*^quare up from 8 to 9. 
S to 9 is lyi inches. 

1 )ra\v line 9-7-K. 

j to 11 is 1/12 of seat. 

11 to 12 is Yz inch. 

12 to 13 is ^ inch. 
Shape the seat 9-7-J-13. 

P to R plus 9 to 14 is 1/2 of waist plus 2% inches. 
B to 15 is 1 inch. 

Y to 17 is yi inch. 

2 to 19 is M inch. 

Shape the outside seam 14-15-17-19. 

X to 16 is % inch. 

Z to 18 is .j4 inch. 

.Shape the inseam 13-16-18. 

Shape the bottom 18-19 rounding out }i inch at point W, which completes the draft. 



STOUT PANTS 



11 




DIAGRAM VI 



12 YOUNG MEN'S PANTS 



Diagram VII. 
YOUNG MEN'S PANTS 

This draft is for an English style, and is to be used for woolen goods only. The draft 
is made for a proportionate size 34. 

MEASUREMENTS 
Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 19. 
Bottom 15. 
Inseam 32. 

DRAFT 
Draw line ABCD. 
A to B is 9j^ inches or the rise. 
B to D is 32 inches, the inseam. 
B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches. 
Square out from points ABCD. 
B to E is J^ of 40, the seat, plus }4 inch. 
E to 7 is 3^ of seat. 
7 to F is ^ inch. 
H is half way between B and 7. 
Square up from H to I and down from H to M. 
M to N is >4 inch. 
Draw hne H-N-O. 

1 to J and I to K are 34 oi waist. 
E to 6 is >^ of 40, the seat. 

Draw line 6-7. 

Shape line J-F. 

B to 5 is 34 inch. 

N to P and N to Q are y4 of the knee, 19 inches. 

O to R and O to S are 34 of the bottom, 15 inches, less 34 inch each. 

Shape the inseam F-P-R and the outside seam K-5-Q-S. 

O to T is ^ inch. 

Shape the bottom R-S, which completes the forepart. 

BACK 
F to G is 1/12 of seat plus 3^2 inch. 
Drop point G % inch. 

2 is half way between J and I. 
Draw line L-6-2-Z. 

2 to Z is 234 inches. 

K to J and Z to 3 are 34 of waist plus 234 inches. 

5 to B is 1 inch. 

.Shape the seat Y-G. 

P to U and Q to V are ^ inch each. 

R to W and S to X are % inch each. 

Shape the inseam G-U-W and the outside seam 3-V-X. 

Shape the bottom W-K. 

Take H inch Vee out at ]ioiiit 4, which completes the draft. 



YOUNG MEN'S PANTS 



13 




DlACJRAM VII 



U REGULAR PEG PANTS 



Diagram VIII. 
FULL PEG PANTS 

The diagram here illustrated is for full peg trousers. You will note that the inseam coii- 
structiou line is squared straight down from point J on the seat line. This gives you the ex- 
tra length on the outside seam that is required in a full peg trousers. 



MEASUREMENTS 



Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Inseam 42. 
Rise 9. 
Knee 22. 
Bottom 16. 



DRAFT 



Draw line ABCDE. 

A to C is 9 inches. 

C to D is 1/2 of inseam less 2 inches. 

C to E is 32 inches, the inseam. 

Square out from points ABCDE. 

C to F is J/2 of seat. 

F to G is J/2 inch. 

Square up from G to L. 

F to H is J/g of seat. 

H to I is >< inch. 

H to J is J/2 inch. 

K is half way between H and C. 

Square up from K to M. 

M to L and M to N are J4 of waist each. 

G to S is J^ of seat. 

Draw line H-S. 

Line T is J4 '"^^1"' from line H-S. 

Draw line L-I. 

C to R is J/^ inch. 

Square down from J to P. 

C to V is J^ of 22, the knee. 

P .to U is >^ of 16, the bottom. 

Shape the outside seam N-R-V-U. 

Shape the inside seam H-O-P. 

Draw the bottom P-U, which completes the forepart. 

BACK 

2 is half way between M and L. 

Draw line 2-S-6. 

2 to 3 is 2j^ inches. 

1 to 8 is 1/12 of seat plus Yi inch. 

8 to 9 is ^ inch. 

Shape the seat 3-S-9. 

LN plus 3-4 is Yz of seat plus 2J4 inches, 19J4 inches in this case. 

B to 10 is 2J/2 inches. 

V to 12 is Y inch. 

U to 14 is Y '"ch. 

Shape the outside seam 4-12-14. 

O to iris % inch. 

P to 13 is Yx inch. 

Shape the inseam 9-11-13, which completes the draft. 



REGULAR PEG PANTS 



15 




DIAGRAM \"1I1 



WORK PANTS 



Diagram IX. 
WORK PANTS 

This draft is especially adapted for khak and all cotton materials. 
MEASUREMENTS 



Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Rise 103^. 
Knee 21. 
Bottom 17. 
Inseam 32. 



DRAFT 



Draw line ABCD. 

A to B is I0y2 inches. 

B to C is 2 inches less than yi of the inseam. 

B to D is 32 inches, the inseam. 

Square out from points ABCD. 

B to F is 3^ of seat plus yi inch. 

Square up from F to N. 

F to H is J/g of seat. 

H to G is 3^ inch. 

I is half way between G and B. 

Square up from I to J. 

J to N and J to O are 34 of ^^ each. 

F to 2 is 3^ of seat. 

Draw line 2-G. 

Shape N-H. 

Square down from I to K. 

K to L is 34 inch. 

Draw line I-L-M. 

M to R and M to S are % of bottom each. 

L to P and L to Q are % of knee each. 

Shape the inseam H-P-R and the outside seam O-B-Q-S, which finishes the forc])art. 

BACK 

T is half way between N and J. 

G to V is .>4 inch. 

Draw line U-T-V. 

T to U is 234 inches. 

H to W is 1/12 of seat. 

W to X is 3^ inch. 

X to Y is ^ inch. 

Shape the seat U-T-Y. 

O to N plus U to Z is 3^ of waist plus 13^ inches. 

P to 4 and Q to 5 are % inch each. 

R to 6 and S to 7 are ^ inch each. 

Draw the in seam Y-4-6 and the outside seam Z-5-7, which completes the draft. 



WORK PAN IS 




DIAGRAM I\ 



BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED 



Diagram X. 
BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED 



This illustrat^ion shows the variation from the regular draft that is used in producing 
trousers for bow-legged and knock-kneed. The dotted line shows the change for bow-legs. 
The dot and dash line shows the change for knock-knees. 



EXPLANATION 

Boi^'-Lcggcd 
Move the center line in 1 3/4 inches from M to 10. 
10 to 11 and 10 to 12 are 34 of the bottom each. 
15 to 16 and 15 to 18 are 34 of the knee each. 
Shape the inseam -16-11 and the outside seam B-Q-12, which finishes the forepart. 



DRAFT 

16 to 17 is .)4 inch. 
18 to 19 is 34 inch. 

11 to 13 is ^ inch. 

12 to 14 is Yz inch. 

Shape the inseam Y-17-13 and the outside seam 3-19-14, which finishes the back. 



Knock-Kuccd. 
Move the center line I34 inches out from M to 20. 
20 to 22 and 20 to 23 are 34 of the bottom each. 
24 to 25 and 24to 26 are 34 of the knee each. 
Shape the inseam H-25-22 and the outseam B 
-26-23. which completes the forepart. 

BACK 

The same measurements are allowed for seams on the back of the knock-kneed as for the 
bow-legged. 



BOWLEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED 



19 




13 11 10 20 IZ 1^ 

DIACRAM X 



20 OVERALL DRAFT 



Diagram XI. 
OVERALL DRAFT 

This overall is made with a side seam, and is drafted 2 sizes larger than the regular 
pants measurement at the waist and seat. 



MEASUREMENTS 



Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 20 1^. 
Bottom 19. 
Rise lOK'- 
Inseam 32. 



DRAFT 

Draw line ABCDE. 

C to G is y. of 21. 

G to H is >4 inch. 

Square up from H to N. 

G to I is J/^ of seat. 

I to J is j^ inch. 

H to 6 is >^ of seat. 

Square out from point 6 to B. 

Draw line 6-1. 

F is half way between I and C. 

Square up from F to K and down from F to M. 

Shape line N-J. 

R to L and R to Q is J4 of knee each. 

M to S and M to T are ^ of bottom each. 

Shape the inseam J-R-S and the outside seam A-Q-T. 

N to O is 1/4 of waist, which completes the front. 



BACK 

W is half way between N and K. 

Dra\\ line J-W-X. 

W to X is 3 inches. 

O to N plus X to Y is >4 of waist plus 1' s in;hes. 

J to V is 1/12 of 21 plus y2 inch. 

V to 9 is ^ inch. 

Shape the seat X-9. 

R to 2 is 1 inch. 

S to 4 is 1 inch. 

Shape the inseam 9-2-4. 

B to Z is 1^ inches. 

Q to 3 is Yi inch. 

T to 5 is Y2 inch. 

Draw the outside seam Y-T-5, which comi)letes the draft. 



OVERALL 




DIAGRAM XI 



APRON OVERALL 



Diagram XII. 
APRON OVERALL 

This overall is made with a side seam and bib, as illustrated. The draft is made 2 sizes 
larger at the waist and seat than the actual measurements. It is especially adapted for the 
better grade goods. 

MEASUREMENTS 
Waist 34. 
Rise 11. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 21. 
Bottom 19. 
Inseam 32. 

DRAFT 
Draw line ABEFG. 
A to B is 11 inches. i 

B to E is 2 inches less than 3/2 of the inseam. 
B to F is the inseam, 32 inches. 
F to G is 1 inch for turn-up. 
Square up from points ABEFG. 
B to H is >4 of 21. 
Square up from H to L. 
H to I is >^ of 21. 
I to J is y2 inch. 

1 to 20 is 1 ■/ inches. 

M is half way between H and B. 

Square down from M to N. 

H to U is y^ of 21. 

Draw line U-1. 

Shape the front L-J. 

E to U is 11 inches. 

F to O is 1034 inches. 

Draw the inseam J-U-O, which completes th'j front. 

BIB 
Square up from L to 16. 
L to 16 is 11 inches. 
16 to 17 is 5j^ inches. 
A to 14 is l-)4 inches. 
Draw hues 16-17, 17-14, 13-14, and H-A. 

BACK . 
L to Y is 1/12 of waist. 
U to Z is 1/12 of 21. 
Draw line Y-Z. 

J to W is 1/12 of 21 plus I/' inch. 
"W to 1 is >1 inch. 
Y to 2 is 5j4 inches. 
Draw the seat, 2-Z-l. 
U to 19 is Yi inch. 
Shape the inseam 1-19-P. 
A to 4 is Vy inches. 
Draw line 4-F. 

2 to 3 is 3 inches. 
Shape 3-14. 

5 to 7 and 6 to 8 are 1 inch each. 
7 to 8 is 8>4 inches. 
A to 10 is 4>^ inches. 
A to 6 is 63^ inches. 

POCKETS 
Make the back pocket 6 inches wide and 7 inches deep. 
Make the pocket on bib 5 inches wide and 6 inches deep. 
Make the lower side pocket 6 J/ inches deep and 3;^ inches wide. 



APRON OV'ERALL 




DIAGRAM XII 



24 ONE-PIECE OVERALL 



Diagram XIII. 

ONE-PIECE OVERALL 

This draft is for a cheap grade of overalls. It is matle without any side-seam. The draft 
is made 2 sizes larger than the regular pants measurements across the seat and waist. 



MEASUREMENTS 



Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 20. 
Bottom ISyi. 
Rise \0y2. 
Inseam 32. 



DRAFT 



Draw line ABCD. 

A to B is lOyi inches. 

B to D is the inseam, 32 inches. 

B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches, 14 inches in this case. 

Square out from points B, C and D. 

B to E is >^ of 21. 

E to F is J/s of 21 less % inch. 

Square down from F to G. 

F to G is 1/12 of 21. 

Draw line B-G-R. 

J is half way between G and B. 

Square up from J to K. 

J to K is 103^ inches. 

Draw line A-K-I. 

K to I is >^ of 18. 

Square up from H to I. 

H to L is >^ of 21. 

Draw line L-G. 

Line M-N is % inch from L-G. 

Shape the front I-G. 

2 to O is 1 inch. 
Draw line C-O-P. 

3 to Q is 1 inch. 

8— DESIGNER 1800 Martin May 17 

Draw line D-Q-T. 

C to O is ^ of the knee. 

D to Q is yi of bottom. 

Shape the inseam G-O-Q, wdiich finishes the forepart. 

BACK 

I A plus AT is y2 of 36 plus \% inches, 19J.4 inches in this case. 

Square up from T to U. 

T to U is 3 inches. 

Draw line U-A. 

G to R is 1/12 of 21. 

K to S is 34 -inch. 

Draw line U-R-S. 

Shape the seat U-S. 

O to P is 54 inch. 

Q to T is % inch. 

Shape the inseam S-T, which completes the draft. 



ONE-PIECE OVERALL 




DIAGRAM XIII 



26 MAIL-ORDER CHANGES 



Diagram XIV. 
MAIL ORDER CHANGES 

Lowering and raising the rise 
Diagrams A and B show exactly how to lower the rise 1 inch and raise the rise 1 inch. 

FOREPART. {Diagram B.) 

A to 1 and B to 2 are 1 inch each. 

A to 3 and B to 4 are 1 inch each. 

Line 1-2 and line 3-4 are the same length as line A-B. In other words square up and down 

from points B and A. Then reshape the side-seam as illustrated. 

BACK. {Diagram A.) 



Extend line A to 1. 

Square up and down from point C to 3 and 6. 
A to 1, B to 2 and C to 3 are 1 inch each. 
A to 4, B to 5 and C to 6 are 1 inch each. 
Reshape the side-seam, as illustrated. 



CONTINUOUS WAISTBAND. {Diagrams C and D.) 



1 to 3 is 1)4 inches. 

2 to 4 is 1^ inches. 

BACK. (Diagram C.) 

6 to 3 is 1;54 inches. 

2 to 5 is 1^ inches. 

1 to 4 is lyi inches. 

CUFF BOTTOMS. {Diagrams F and G) 

FOREPART. {Diagram G) 

Square down from A to 1 and B to 2. 

A to 1 is 5 inches. 

B to 2 is 5 inches. 

A to 3 and 3 to 5 are 2 inches each. 

B to 4 and 4 to 6 are 2 inches each. 

4 to 8 and 3 to 7 are 34 inches each. 

1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inches each. 

Reshape the bottom A-7-5-9 and B-8-6-10, as illustrated. 

BACK. {Diagram F) 

Square down from A to 1 and B to 2. 
A to 1 is 5 inches ancl B to 2 is 5 inches. 
A to 3 and 5 to 5 are 2 inches each. 

3 to 7 and 4 to 8 are 34 inch. each. 

1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inch each. 
Reshape the bottom A-7-9 and B-8-10. 

DRESS. {Diagram F.) 

B to 2 is ^ inch. 
C is the notch. 
A to 1 is Vn inch. 
Draw line 1-2-3. 

FLY (Diagram /.) 

AB is the forepart. 
1 to 2 is 2 inches. 
3 to 4 is 134 inches. 
Draw lines 1-3 and 2-4. 



MAIL-ORDER CHANGES 



27 




DIAGRAM XIV 



WAISTBAD (Diagram H .) 
Draw line 1-2. 
1 to 5 is 2 inches. 

5 to 6 is ■/< of the waistband measure. 

6 to 2 is 1 inch. 

Square up from 1 to 3 and up from 2 tc 4. 

1 to 3 is 2y2 inches. 

2 to 4 is 2 inches. 

Draw hnes 1-3, 3-4, and 4-2. 



28 



DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND POCKET LAYS 



TN cutting pants pockets, the width, depth and 

•^ shape, should be considered. They should be 

cut exact so as to eliminate any possible waste. 

Most trimmers cut their front pockets, 14" x 
14" and back pockets 7" x 18". As pocketing 
comes 28" wide, the goods is split up to these 
measurements and distributed to the tailors. The 
pants tailor then becomes the designer and the 
pockets are shaped according to his taste. The 
result is that the pockets do not hang correctly 
and they are not uniform. 

It is very important that the front pockets be 
shaped correctly. The top of pocket should be 
hollowed out, as shown in the accompanying dia- 
gram. This gives the pocket the proper hang 
and balance. 

The front pockets should be sewed in the pants 
1 inch from waistband and opening should be 
Syi inches. 

The back pockets should be sewed in 3;^ 
inches from top of waistband and opening should 
he Sy^ inches. 

Cash Pockets. 

Dial/ ram C. 

A to B is 4 inches. 
A to C is 8 inches. 

Piof/raui D. Side Pieces. 

A to B is 1>< inches. 
A to C is 8 inches. 




n 



Front P.ocket Lay Shozving A Saving Of Side 
Pieces And Watch Pockets. 

A. Front Pockets. 

C. Watch Pockets. 

D. Side Pockets. 
Diagram F. 

Back Pockets and IVatch Pockets. 

B. Back Pockets. 

C. Watch Pockets. 



Note — Back Pockets are only 17 inches long on 
account of pocket being 3^/2 inches from top of 
waistband. This gives you the same depth as 
18 inch pocket which is set in 4^ inches from 
top. 





Front Pockets. 


Diagram A. 




A to D is 


14 inches. 


A to H is 


14 inches. 


A to B is 


23/ inches. 


C to D is 


23/2 inches. 



B C is hollowed out 1 inch at point F. 
Shape Pocket as shown. 



Rack Pockets. 
A to B is 7 inches. 
A to C is 17 inches. 



DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND. POCKET LAYS 



29 



B 



& 



3 




30 



RIDING BREECHES 



Diagram XV. 

RIDING BREECHES 



MEASUREMENTS 
Waist 34. 
Seat 40. 
Knee 16. 
Calf 12K'- 
Shank 10^. 
Rise 10. 

DRAFT 
Draw line ABCDEFG. 
A to C is 10 inches. 
A to D is 20 inches. 
D to E is 7 inches. 
D to F is llj^. 
D to G is 19 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEFG. 
C to H is 5^ of seat. 
H to I is Yz inch. 

Square up from I to O and down from I to 26. 
H to J is ^ of seat. 
J to K and J to L are Yz inch each. 
M is half way between J and C. 
Square up from M to N. 
N to () and N to P are J4 of waist each. 

to R is i^ inch. 
P to S is J/^ inch. 
Draw line S-T. 

1 to W is >^ of seat. 
Square out from W to 3. 
Draw line W-J. 

XL is J4 inch from W-J. 

Shape the front R-K. 

C to T is 2 inches. 

Square up from T to 3 and down from T to 4. 

M to U is 2 inches. 

Square down from U to V. 

Z to 5 and Z to 6 are Y\ of knee each. 

2 to 7 and 2 to 8 are % of calf eahc. 
V to 9 and V to 10 are Y of shank each. 
Shape the outside seam 3-T-6-8-10. 
Shape the inside seam K-1 1-5-7-9. 

Add \y2 inch waistband, which completes the 
forepart. 

BACK 
N to Hne 14- T is 1 inch. 
Draw line J-14-15-16. 
14 to 15 is J4 of waist. 
15 to 16 is \Yi inches. 
K to 17 is 1/12 of seat. 

17 to 18 is 1 inch. 

18 to 19 is Yi inch. 
Shape the seat 16-15-14-17-19. 
R-S plus 15-20 is Y2 of waist plus 2jX inches. 
Take out ■/ inch Vee, as illustrated. 
T to 22 is 2Y\ inches. 
R to 23 is Y inch. 
6 to 25 is Y2 inch. 
8 to 27 is Y-i inch. 

10 to G is 2J4 inches. 

11 to 24 is ^ inch. 

5 to 26, 7 to 28, and 9 to 29 are y-i inch each. 
Shape the inseam and the outside seam, as il 

lustrated. 
Take out 1'/ inch Vee from 30 to 31 




FOR FRONT BUTTONING 
Take off from the forepart 6 to 32, 8 to 34, 

which are 2J4 inches each, 10 to 36, which 

is 1J4 inches. Add this to the back from 25 

to i}>, and 27 to 35. 
G to 2)7 add 2^ inches. 

Take out 1>4 inch Vee from 38 to 39, as illus- 
trated. 

Take out 1 inch Vee from back from 30 to 
40, as shown on diagram. 



OVERALLS AND PANTS PROPORTIONS 



31 



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sa.iaxioKj 



Don't Grope Around in the Dark 
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STUDY, and be guided by, Harry Simons' books on the science of grading, draft- 
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